I recently got a Metabo HC 260c planer thicknesser for squaring some rough sawn wood for a few projects I have coming up. The jointer aspect of the planer works fine, but the thicknesser aspect does not work at all. After a phone call to Metabo, it transpired that the rollers that feed the material have not been properly set and the bolts that set/adjust them have just been finger snugged but not set in any manner, this results in the rollers being below the level of the cutter head, so whilst the material feeds, it doesn't make contact with the blades. This should have been set in the factory, but wasn't. So there is no part of the user manual that offers instructions in setting this, nor do I have the time to return the machine.
Planer - Thicknesser Elektra Beckum HC 260 M. 714 € Fixed price not including VAT. Planer Elektra Beckum HC410, very good condition, 3 kW, 1680 mm table. Weight approx. Kg 410 star triangle motor start mechanical planer table height adjustment manual cutter block guard suction hood planer fence tildable 45 deg. SolidNmeter Cmsx7rbmc tmm.
![Thicknesser Thicknesser](http://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/21/2006/11/116_0507_tune_10_z-how_to_tune_carbs-primary_jets.jpg)
Does anyone have any experience with this machine type and know of the correct procedure to set the rollers? Thanks Locks. Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website.
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I wouldn't say it's cumbersome, once you've done it a few time it can be done in no more than a minute. It's can be a little tiresome though, if you need to swap back and forth a lot. Though if you plan ahead and get all the jointing done first then all the thicknessing, it's not too bad. The thought of getting my money back had crossed my mind. But since I wanted an all-in-one machine with a degree of portability, there isn't a better option!
The only other option is a cheaper machine that's not as good or a Dewalt which is twice the price and has had some absolutely terrible reviews. I am curious regarding this remark. It has been my experience, and as taught to me by others, that one edge/face of the timber should be planed straight on a planer/jointer or in planer/jointer mode first prior to thicknessing. This straightened edge goes through the Thicknesser on the side opposite the blades.
Otherwise the Thicknesser follows the bend/banana of the timber no matter how slight, or if the bend is flipped over more wood than necessary is removed in the thicknessing process and with the bottom curve still remaining. Note on edit. I added '/face' to edge, to avoid confusion. It was very early morning down here when I wrote this and subsequent comments. I am curious regarding this remark.
It has been my experience, and as taught to me by others, that one edge of the timber should be planed straight on a planer/jointer or in planer/jointer mode first prior to thicknessing. This straightened edge goes through the Thicknesser on the side opposite the blades. Otherwise the Thicknesser follows the bend/banana of the timber no matter how slight, or if the bend is flipped over more wood than necessary is removed in the thicknessing process and with the bottom curve still remaining. I use my thicknesser mainly for faces not edges unless it's smaller sections. For example If I buy a 3000m length of 225mm X 27mm oak of sawn board my first task is to put it through the thicknesser until two faces dressed and I'm I'm down to my build thickness say 22mm. I'm not concerned about edges at this point only the faces.
Change machine to jointer. I used to straight edge board on jointer but now prefer to use 3m rail & track saw to do it. Finish dimensioning timber with track saw or table saw and finish edges on jointer. The thicknesser can cope with slightly cupped boards? I would put board in thicknesser with 'curve' up (convex). Take a couple of passes through thicknesser. Your looking to plane a surface around half the face of board.
Then flip over and repeat. This will remove slight cupping but it's a case of experience and checking that your final dim (22mm) isn't compromised. I prefer to do it this way than try to straighten a face on the jointer 225mm wide and only 27mm thick. Thicknesser for faces first. Reference mark on best face Jointer or track saw for straight edge with track on reference face. Track saw or table saw for widths with fence against straight edge. Jointer for both edges with reference face against fence.
Hope that helps explain the process that someone taught me over 30 years ago.
![Elektra beckum planer thicknesser hc260 manual meat grinder Elektra beckum planer thicknesser hc260 manual meat grinder](/uploads/1/2/5/5/125541603/583177774.jpg)
Drying oven (1x), Make Hermann Waldner, Type HC-15.2 N, No 2154, New 1993, Material stainless steel (1.4571), Max. Temperature 100 Degr.
C., Number of compartments: 1, Capacity 1885 Ltr, Internal width 1200mm, Internal depth 850mm, Internal height 1500mm, Steam heating (Jacket capacity 17 Ltr, 3,2 bar), Number of doors: 1, With fan, Motor 1,7 KW, 220/380 Volt (Ex), With rack mounted on wheels (1x), With 15 slots, With switch, Floorspace 2,3x1,2 M, Total height 2,8 M, Extra Specifications - Incl.